Graduation: Expensive and Oversized

Another milestone to check off the 'life' to-do list: the long-awaited university graduation. This occasion is traditionally celebrated by decking out the 'graduands' in black gowns that more closely resemble poorly tailored capes and matching caps that are equally unflattering. You have to give them credit, though; it must have been difficult to design a co-ord that nobody actually looks good in. 

It doesn't take a Paris Fashion Week judge to notice that the 'academic dress' is ill-fitting in general: students of extreme stature are especially cheated. Despite inputting measurements of height and head size prior to ordering the dress, this feels like a farce as they appear to be a one-size-fits-all deal. Taller individuals show an excess of leg (scandalous!) - rather than the traditional mid-calf hem ending - which looks comical. While shorter students are positively swimming in their gowns, looking as if the shroud is trying to swallow them. Nevertheless, that'll be 45 quid for your capri-cape or floundering lesson, please. For an additional fee, you can keep the uniform for up to a week, and, I suppose, parade around your village in it until everyone knows you have graduated and are possibly quite mad. 



The practice of fleecing students, especially undergrads, by educational institutions comes to a grand finale in the weeks leading up to the graduation ceremony.


It's not enough that students are swindled - Ede and Ravenscroft charge £45 to rent the getup for just 5 hours - but those of smaller build and frame, usually females, get the even shorter end of the proverbial stick. 

While the gown itself is an entire ordeal, the hood which crosses the upper chest and scoops down the back is actually meant to hold the two-piece dress in place. 

Firstly, two centimeter squared pieces of Velcro connect the front stretch of the hood to the shoulders of the gown, and the idea (at least, I think) is to use the weight of the hood pulling back against the shoulders to keep the Velcroed sections resting on the front of the shoulders. For those who have slim shoulders, this is a constant battle during the several hours of ceremony and photographs; the students repeatedly pinch the shoulders of their robes and yank them in a motion similar to one tightening the straps on a backpack.

Secondly, a small loop of elastic is sewn on to the back side the chest strap of the hood. It's purpose is to attach to the second button of a shirt to secure the hood-gown to the students' formal attire. Now, females typically wear dresses and jumpsuits to these ceremonial events, and males wear button-down shirts with jackets and trousers. Plenty of graduation photos featuring female students have a little black coil peaking out from their hood straps in the centre of their chests, reminding them that if they had worn a shirt the costume would at least stay put.

It can be assumed that the original purpose of the Velcro was to attach the hood to the gown, while the loop would attach the two to the wearers' clothing underneath. The excess shoulder room paired with the button loop leads us to conclude that these ensembles were originally made for male students, and not properly redesigned when women were first allowed to attend university in the late 1860s. This is especially disappointing when we consider that in the 2017/18 academic year, 57% of UK university students were female. (1)

'We will help you put it on and ensure you are wearing it correctly.' - Ede & Ravenscroft (2)


Even though all graduands are fitted with their pre-ordered gown and mortarboard by the providing company, each ceremony video captures endless fiddling and fidgeting as the students try to grapple with their attire on the sly. A source of great entertainment for the viewer, and the bane of students' graduations. It is important to note that after such a momentous achievement, students will be expecting the very best for their commemorative day - think of it like a wedding - and 'unisex' gowns will simply not do. 


2. https://www.edeandravenscroft.com/graduation-services/academic-dress/dress/

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